Imagine tasting a potato with the same flavour it had 500 years ago. In the Canary Islands, this is a reality thanks to the conservation and cultivation of ancient varieties that trace directly back to those brought from South America after the conquest.
In the Canary Islands, these ancient varieties are still cultivated and are protected under the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) “Ancient Potatoes of the Canary Islands.” Depending on the time of year, it is common to find varieties like Azucenas, Bonitas, Negras, and Pelucas at local markets. These potatoes are known for their intense flavour and unique texture, making them ideal for preparing “wrinkled potatoes,” a traditional method that brings out their full organoleptic qualities.
Ancient potatoes are an integral part of the daily Canarian diet, and their consumption borders on ritualistic. The most prized potatoes are those grown in the island midlands, where the climate and volcanic soil impart special characteristics. Although many of these potatoes are grown in small family gardens for domestic consumption, they can also be found in numerous restaurants offering an authentic Canarian experience to diners.
Historically, these potatoes were so valuable that they were used as currency for bartering other products and considered almost as precious as gold. Their importance lay not only in their nutritional value but also in their adaptability to the harsh Canarian terrain, making them a pillar of the local economy.
From the Canary Islands, these potatoes quickly spread throughout Europe, becoming a staple in many countries. The ability of Canarian potatoes to maintain their authenticity over the centuries is a testament to the dedication of local farmers who have preserved these varieties with care and respect for tradition.
Today, the legacy of ancient potatoes lives on, not just as a food staple but as a symbol of Canarian identity. Tasting these potatoes is, in a way, a journey back in time, offering a taste that has endured over the centuries, retaining its original purity and quality.